Saturday, July 18, 2020

Do Ferreiro Albarino

2018 Do Ferreiro Albarino Dous Ferrados....$49.99
The only Albariño where they use any wood is the 2018 Dous Ferrados, which ferments and matures in barrel for nine months with lees. The idea is to go back to the wines from yesteryear, fermenting in large-volume oak casks (500 liters here) with the intention that the wood is in the background and does not interfere with the aromatics of the variety but aid the micro-oxygenation of the wine. The grapes are sourced from the same soils as the Adina, on red slate soils, a different source than the old "barrica" bottling that was from Meaño. The wine needed a little bit of time to open up in the glass; funnily enough, it felt more reductive/blurry than any of its siblings. The palate is saline and mineral, with marked granite sensations in the grainy texture, and finishes long and dry. 1,300 bottles were filled in September 2019.
Rated 93/100 The Wine Advocate

2018 Do Ferreiro Albarino Lourido....$49.99
The sharper 2018 Lourido is the most delicate of their three single-vineyard bottlings, from a place very close to the sea on decomposed granite (sand) where the influence of the sea comes with the fog, not with the proximity to the sea, but here they get a very mineral wine, with lots of dry extract (power) and very fresh acidity. It was kept 11 months with lees, and they are thinking even longer with lees could be good for it. This is a mini cepas vellas, from 60- to 65-year-old vines. This is a profile I like very much; it pretty much showcases the style of Salnés. This is only the third vintage of this wine. 1,300 bottles were filled in September 2019. This is approachable, and I think it's also going to age magnificently.
Rated 94/100 The Wine Advocate

2018 Do Ferreiro Albarino Adina....$49.99
The 2018 Adina comes from the southernmost vineyard they work, a parish close to Portonovo, a zone with influence from the fog (which brings saltiness) and completely different soils, as it's on red slate. The nose feels more austere, a little more closed. This is a wine that has good light and burns more malic acid, and the wine feels more citrusy, giving it a different kind of freshness. It's harmonious and serious, subtle; there is a lot of complexity, really elegant. There are 2,000 bottles of this. It was bottled in September 2019.
Rated 94+/100 The Wine Advocate

2018 Do Ferreiro Albarino Cepas Vellas....$54.99
The 2018 Albariño Cepas Vellas has to be one of the finest vintages of this old-vine (reaaaaally old vine!) cuvée, in a vintage where the wine reached levels of elegance and harmony that I don't remember before. After having the wine in the glass for almost two hours, the nose was explosive, and the palate felt like bottled electricity, with effervescent acidity that makes you salivate, and it had incredible depth and concentration. They now tell me they think the vines could have been planted in 1785, in a property that had been a granite quarry, so I don't need to tell you what the soils are like here. This is a zone with a lot of fog, and that brings intense salinity to the wines. I need to dig out some bottles of 2010 I have somewhere in my cellar and check the evolution, because they tell me, and I agree, that this is a modern version of the 2010. There are 8,000 bottles of this wine. It was bottled in September 2019.
Rated 96/100 The Wine Advocate

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