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Thursday, April 18, 2013

Domaine de l'Edre - great wines


Limited wines, and the very best of Roussillon




2009 Domaine de l'Edre Carrement Cotes du Roussilon Villages...$29.99

While the bitter elements in the 2009 Carrement white were a bit too accentuated by heat from 14.5% alcohol, the tank-raised red l'Edre 2009 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Carrement - around half Syrah, but now including a significant amount of Mourvedre as well as Grenache and Carignan - gives an impressive account of itself. Dark berries, bitter dark chocolate, and a gaminess that diminishes with aeration are joined by licorice, vanilla, cherry pit, and black pepper on a plush, texturally-polished, glycerin-rice, seamlessly-ripe palate. While there is faint finishing warmth here, there is also an exuberant persistence of juicy, fresh black fruits such as one too-seldom encounters in this vintage. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. 
Rated 90/100 The Wine Advocate


2009 Domaine de l'Edre Cotes du Roussillon Villages...$44.99

More than half Syrah, along with Grenache, Carignan and now Mourvedre, a portion of the 2009 Cotes du Roussillon Villages L'Edre was vinified in upright, new demi-muids, and the entirety was aged in older barriques. Vivid black raspberry and dark cherry inform the nose and a seamlessly ripe, dense, glycerin-rich palate. Ultra-fine tannins do nothing to disrupt a liqueur-like sense of richness, kissed in the finish by dark chocolate, iodine, and brown spices. This should merit following for at least 6-8 years. Castany and Dieunidou, incidentally, class it with their 2005 as the best exemplar of this cuvee that they have yet bottled. 
Rated 92/100 The Wine Advocate


2008 Domaine de l'Edre Cotes du Roussillon Villages...$44.99

More pungently spicy and with, if anything, a yet finer edge than its 2009 counterpart, the 2008 Cotes du Roussillon Villages L'Edre - roughly two-thirds Syrah, with Grenache and Carignan - is flamboyantly ripe in its evocations of dark cherry and black raspberry preserves. Pungent ginger and smoky black tea, along with tart berry skin and piquant fruit pit, make for tactile energy and invigoration in superbly sustained finish. Unlike its authors, I give this the edge over its 2009 counterpart, largely on account of its sense of dynamic and its sheer juiciness. But it will be fascinating to track the two of them over the next 6-8 years. 
Rated 93/100 The Wine Advocate

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