Friday, December 17, 2010

Beaujolais from Kermit Lynch

2009 Beaujolais from Kermit Lynch
2009 Dupeuble Beaujolais...$13.99
The Dupeuble 2009 Beaujolais cuvee for his U.S. importer is sweetly and generously berry-fruited; silken in texture; delightfully threaded with inner-mouth floral perfume; and finishes with saliva-inducing, invigorating panache, incorporating hints of pistachio oil and salt. Dupeuble claims none of the vines that produced this are younger than 60 years, and even his nouveau is from vines nearly as old. This will remain delightful for at least the next 2-3 years.
Rated 89/100 The Wine Advocate

2009 Breton Morgon Vieilles Vignes....$29.99
Breton’s 2009 Morgon Vieilles Vignes is one of those wines of its vintage positively peachy in its expression of sheer ripeness, boasting as well intense red raspberry and cherry, nut extracts, inner-mouth florality and spices (like its Regnie sibling), but also dark chocolate and toasted pecan underlying richness as well as suggestions of crushed stone and forest floor. There is lovely lift to the long finish and ample sense of brightness and refreshment to accompany its plush texture and glyceral richness, thus belying the wine’s low sulfur. I would expect this beauty to be worth following for 5-6 years, provided one stores it impeccably.
Rated 91-92/100 The Wine Advocate

Chanrion Cote de Brouilly...$19.99
Nicole Chanrion has turned out a 2009 Cote de Brouilly representing, as usual, a blend selected from among six different old vines lots (bottled unfiltered for the U.S.), each of which was harvested the last days of August or beginning of September and came in close to 14% alcohol. Mint chocolate, bittersweet floral perfume, blackberry, cassis, and blueberry in the nose lead to a richly textured and fruited palate with accents of roasted pecan, toasted hazelnut, dark chocolate, peat, and crushed stone. This blend gained considerably in sense of ripeness and textural plushness between its showing in April and in June, at which time it was however still not bottled. I suspect that this installment might not gain the degree of mineral intrigue that often accrues to Chanrion’s wines as they evolve, and I would plan to enjoy it over the next 3 years.
Rated 89-90/100 The Wine Advocate

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